There are millions of tires available, with an array of designations and classifications. What are the best tires in my vehicle? This isn’t a stupid inquiry at all.
In reality, the industry of tires can be like black magic with all the different designations to stay on track. When you go to the tire shop you’ll hear them recite the letters and numbers in such a speed that your head spins. What do I really want to know? Do I appear stupid if I ask many questions? Although it can be like a daunting task, shouldn’t be embarrassed asking questions. You’re learning, which is crucial.
The main issue in tire stores is that you have to interact with sales people. Their goal is to help you get out of the door with brand new tires. It is best if they sell you the tires they have on hand and then add a long warranty and then they’re completed. That’s a bit out of line with your goal to get the tires that are going to serve you best in the future. For that reason, in order to get the best tires know-how is your best friend.
In the end, a knowledgeable client is a better one to deal with. If you’re prepared, it’s more likely that you’ll come off with the right set of tires. So, let’s take a dive the details in just a bit.
First, Tire Designations
Tires come in a myriad of of classifications but there aren’t any tires that have the same. To make space, we’ll focus on the most commonly used tires, and then direct to Google for the more obscure ones.
The most commonly used method of defining a tire by using this formula. It can also be seen on the outside the tires. The lettering is usually raised on the sidewalls of the tire in the form of this:
(Service Type) (Width)/(Aspect Ratio) (Construction)(Rim Size) (Load Index)(Speed Rating) (Load Range) (Extras)
Like:
LT 215 75 R15 / 106Q 106Q BSW
Okay, so what do I do about it? Don’t be too concerned about the specifics, as even tire experts need to find certain things. To keep you alert Sometimes, they confuse things or even leave some things out. Here’s how to identify the meaning.
Understanding
Service Type — Passenger Car (P), Light Truck (LT), Trailer (T or ST), etc.. There are many more than that, but we’ll not be concerned about it right now. In the case of trailers we suggest LT as well as ST for the majority of trailers. Look up the categories of Trailer Tires and Automotive Tires for further details. Small tires may have distinct designations, but we’ll save the subject for later.
Click here for a 10 inch trailer wheel.
Width — The nominal tires width measured in millimeters, from the bulging edge to the bulging edge. It’s not the length of the tread or the size of the bulge resulting from the car’s weight upon the roadway. The tire’s width is “theoretical” largest spot of the tire properly inflated and sitting on it. (If you begin measuring you’ll find that they’re not always accurate.)
Aspect Ratio – This is a percentage ratio of the height of the tire section to the width. This is the section of the tire that does not include the wheel. Take a look at the image. When you’ve got a 75 angle ratio, this means that you have a distance of border up to the treads is approximately 75 percent from the length.
Construction is the makeup inside. Radial (R) is all you require. Although there are other options, Bias ply tires are not as widely available anymore for use in consumer applications. For applications on heavy trailers, there are sometires, however.
Rim Size Rim Size the diameter of the tire seat in inches. It must be the same as the rim. It’s not the complete outer diameter that the rim has. It is interesting to note that rim width isn’t a factor in the tire’s name, but it is an important factor when you purchase your tires and rims. Because the tire is flexible that it has the ability to work with something like 6.5 to 8” wide or some other. The rim will be rigid, so be sure your tires fit the rims.
Load Index — This is a description of the load the tire is able to be able to carry, but it’s really an actual code. For instance, 106 indicates that it’s carrying at the minimum 2094 lbs. It is all you have to do is search for the index number, based on the capacity of the load you’re looking for.
Speed Rating is the speed that is the highest for the tire. This is an identifier that can be looked for. In our case Q refers to between 100 and 100 miles per hour. Because the majority of trailer tires are similar to: L up to 75 miles per hour; M – up to 81 mph; and N up to 87 mph. Make sure that your tires are designed for the speed you’ll be traveling at.
Load Range -Again an encoded number to display the ply’s and maximum load rating for the tire. Normal Load (SL) Extra Load (XL) C D E, F, G, H and possibly with a number similar to one of “1” E1 for example. It’s not as important to me, as loading indexes are the best way to pick the tire.
Extras — Although there are some additional items that appear in the final section but they aren’t all that essential for the purpose. Things such as BSW (Black Side Wall) or the manufacturer’s codes, or even other things could be displayed.
After that, Wheel Designations
Wheels (also known as rims) are easier to use. They are equipped with the capacity to load as well as a diameter, width as well as a bolt pattern along with an offset. Some have an indication of pressure, but most of the time, that’s part of the capacity to load.
Rim Diameter The tire’s seat diameter. It’s not the total circumference of the wheel. It’s a diameter that must be in line with the size of the tire. Rims come in various sizes, which, on the other terms define the wheelsuch as an 14 15′ wheel. There’s more but this is the most important thing to consider.
Bolt Pattern is a designation of the number of bolts that are in the pattern of what size. The bolt pattern must be in line with the pattern of the axle. It’s usually described with the format 5 on 5”, or similar to that. It can be decoded as five holes on 5″ (bolt circular) diameter, evenly spaced. Larger capacity wheels are equipped with more holes on diameters of a ‘Bolt Circle’. Examples include 6 on 5.5″ or 8” on 9″” diameter.
Width Rim width refers to the distance between the flanges that the tire is. It is a linear measurement like 7” . it should be within a reasonable range for the size of tire. A wider rim will allow greater tire “bulge”. The rims for trailers are likely to be shorter side to provide more clearance. Be sure to ensure that the specifications of the tire match with the width, diameter and capacity for load.
Offset The offset is typically at a zero value for the trailer wheel. The offset is the distance that is measured from centrality of wheel and the mounting surface. It is sometimes referred to as “Dish”. For Front Wheel Drive cars, they feature offset “out” which allows the axle shafts to be more spacious inside. Dually-equipped cars have a huge offset, allowing wheels to bolt together, but still have space in between tires. If you choose wheels that have an offset different than zero could let the tires “stick in” or “pull into” just a bit. It is not a common practice with trailers as it forces the bearings of the axle a bit differently, which reduces the axle’s capacity to load. We recommend using Zero Offset to avoid trouble.
Choosing Your Trailer Tires
After we’ve got all the necessary information taken care of Let’s get more specific about tires that are suitable for your trailer. Certain tires are not suitable for the trailer. Of course, you can put large, low aspect ratio tires on the trailer if you wish perhaps to complement the tow vehicle in a display. They are always enjoyable to observe. But, in a pragmatic sense, it is possible to find plenty which we can eliminate.
Size-related Things to Be Considered
In general small diameter wheels have smaller diameter tires and carry less load. However they have smaller trailers and lower vertical intrusions above (smaller wheel wells, fenders and fenders, etc. ) However they offer lower ground clearance.
In general, tires with wider widths are able to carry more weight. Although a larger footprint can be beneficial in certain ways, they need some extra space from between the sides. If you are driving a lot on rough terrain — such as the grass, gravel, or sand, larger tires can be beneficial.
Pressure on tires can be an issue, particularly when you drag your trailer on empty. Bounce of the trailer is a real issue and pressure is one solution as discussed in this article on bounce on the trailer. Smaller tires that have high pressure are more prone to. Selecting tires with a higher Aspect Ratio (like 75 or 80) will help because they have more sidewalls that can provide some “suspension” impact.
Speed and Load
It is important to know that the Speed Rating and Load Index numbers can mean more than simply what’s secure. Don’t compromise on either. If you’re thinking you’ll never be able to pull your trailer along the highway , so you purchase tires that are rated lower than 75 mph. What happens if you have to drive and see that traffic is moving around you at speeds in excess of 80 speed? Don’t be tempted to take it as a sign of weakness. My personal opinion is that there is no reason to think about a tire that has speeds lower than N.
I think of Load Index the same way. While it’s simple to imagine capacity of the axle converting directly to capacity of tires, you’re not considering the ways in which things happen. Tires are typically overloaded accidentally or through the dynamics (going around a bend). Because tire failures caused by trailers are not unusual however, it does not seem sensible (to myself) to limit yourself to the minimum. I advocate using tires that offer 10 percent to 15% more capacity. Check out this article for an illustration using numbers.
The Common Sense Problem Avoidance
If you can prevent an issue from happening then it’s much better than resolving the issue later. Tires on trailers definitely fall in the bill. Tires and issues with tires are the main problem with trailers when driving. What number of times you witnessed a trailer parked on roadsides, with one of the wheels missing? This is something you can avoid by taking the use of a few common sense actions.
First
In the first place, make sure the tires are in good condition. If you notice dry rot or sidewall damage, or additional bulges or wear unevenly Fix the issue prior to moving the vehicle. If the axles aren’t straight, for example this can result in additional wear on the tires. Wear isn’t the issue , but the heat generated by the wear that damages the tire’s core (which you cannot see). This weakens the tire, and, at the right time it’ll give way.
The way to avoid this is easy. Make sure to inspect your tires prior to taking off. Most of the time , indicators are in place early to tell you to change the tires on your trailer that are worn out. Another indicator is heat. Apply a finger to the tires as you stop to fill up with gas. If the bearings or tires are hot, find out why and then fix it prior to moving on.
Second
Check that your trailer is in good condition for the job you’re looking to get. I have seen many trailers “probably” loaded. I’ve seen more of them with an axle issue that leads to tire overload . Learn about the correct load sharing for axles. It’s difficult to alter these issues at the moment but you need to be aware that you could need to modify your travel plans if the thing you’re planning to do does not fit with the available equipment.
The same is true of equipment that’s not capable of carrying the load.
Third
Choose tires for your trailer that have greater capacity than you require. I would recommend 10 15% and 15%, or over. Here’s an example using numbers.
If you own an axle that weighs 3500lbs that weighs 3500#, each tire and wheel should be able to handle at least half the load (because there’s one tire at each end of the wheel). This would mean 1750# capacity per. When you look at the charts the chart, an Load Index of 100 for 1764# would be a perfect fit. Right? It’s not in my book. This scenario assumes that each axle end are carrying the same amount of weight however, it is rare to see trailer loads exactly even. Additionally, when you go around a bend the tire on the outside will carry more due to the centrifugal force. If your tires are at the limit, then the tire is pushed to its limit at every turn.
Naturally, the manufacturers design the tires that can withstand a certain amount of stress in situations such as bumps and corners on the road. However, when you’re pushing the limits it’s a sign of danger. There’s only an incredibly small cost difference to tires that have 15% more capacity.
In the case of an axle with 3500lbs I’d increase the load by 15% on the 1750# to make 2012# the tire’s capacity minimum. This is an Load Index of 105 for 2039#. It’s a straightforward method to avoid issues.
Fourth
Beyond the tires When you install fresh tires onto a vehicle, be sure that they fit properly.
Fifth
While not specifically focusing on tires, ensure that your axle spindles are operating in a proper manner and that they are greased appropriately. It may take just a few minutes to do but it’s worth taking the time to check it once every few years, especially in the event that the trailer is stored outside.
It’s actually quite simple. Jack on one of the wheels and then spin. Take note of it. If it is spinning well and doesn’t make any grinding or scraping noise proceed onto the next. Every couple of years, it is recommended to take a wheel and hub to inspect the bearings and grease. If you own an RV or boat that can be used on the water, it is recommended to examine the bearings each season perhaps more frequently. If you take often or for long excursions, make sure you check the bearings frequently.
Is this a joke? Sometimes, the grease lasts for a long time. But, if it does fail, it’s typically catastrophic and it’s not a pleasant experience.
Finally
Make sure that the brakes are working properly every once in awhile.
There was a car that pulled an trailer in Idaho some time ago that had an unlocked brake. The hub was heated and wheel to the point that the tire started to catch on fire. The fire actually started a chain of flames along the road. This resulted in a massive forest fire. Horrible.
Another time an individual pulled one over to me, with an “park brake” still in use and it took a couple of hours until it had cooled enough so that we were able to take away the wheels. Completely cooked the bearings as well as grease.
It’s a simple part of your normal check-ups and regular maintenanceor bring it to the shop for a inspection.
Best of Luck with the Tires for Your Trailer
There is no need to depend on luck. As previously mentioned above, the most typical issues can be avoided. Regularly check and maintain and be a bit over the top with the specs. You now know a second trick to ensuring that you are successful in towing your trailer.